Archive for March, 2012
Best review ever… it’s great to see someone actually took time to study the collection and actually understand it… touched.
Thanks Ryan Brown.
Reflecting the sentiment of our nation, James Hock’s Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Collection is a Harbinger for the ominous fiscal fate of 2012. Where his Spring/Summer 2012 collection, The Incomplete Story of Hemimetaboly and the Joy of Fashion, employed colour for surrealist effect, Hock returns to his iconographic pallet of black, white and grey, transcending the gaiety of spring to the macabre. This bold, monochrome pallet emboldens his designs and is as unnerving as it is striking. Rather than being a collection that is welcoming to those observing its wearer, Hock’s designs retain intimacy with the introvert alone.
The self-reflective could wear this collection with homogeny, informing the world that their meditation surpassed shallow frivolity and acting as a caveat against optimism. Although his use of sheer fabric could be construed as provocative, Hock provides a translucent opening to look beyond his designs to the fragile human form. Were these panels tight, Hock’s purpose would be undermined, yet the billowy structure of his sheer tops, skirts and dresses provide a visualised, impermeable personal space, displaying the recluse’s demand to protect herself from the outside world.
Yet beyond the gloom, Hock draws inspiration from wildlife to revert to the simplicity of nature. Using feathers, leather and sheepskin, his intention is clear: solace from the degeneration of our society can only be sought in that which it does not control, the beast. With feathers seemingly impaling her head, Hock’s lookbook model seems comforted by her animalistic costume; her sheepskin sandals enhance her reclusive nature. Rejecting the synthetic materials that adorn the feet of the urban, these sandals step back to the tranquil state of being a pariah, freed from the troubles of the city.
Hock’s expertise centres on the construction of his pieces, the variety of which showcases his mastery of constructing unusual shapes to provide the individuality needed for an entirely monochrome collection. The message that unifies his designs encapsulates our shared anxiety of the future and provides an alternative to the destructive existence from which those anxieties were born.
Re-blog from Kingdom of Style. Thanks!
‘Harbinger’ is the new collection from London based designer James Hock, which he says was “inspired by the habit, the myth, the intelligence, and the fate of the often misunderstood crow“.
I love crows and they are indeed misunderstood on many levels, usually asscociated with death and evil. A long time ago, when talking about a group of crows together, it was known as a “murder of crows”, which might go some way in explaining their rather dark connotations. In Irish mythology, the crow is said to be associated with Morrigan, the goddess of war and death. These very intelligent birds have a bit of a bad reputation!
The collection James has designed inspired by the creature is, as you would imagine, entirely black with simple feathered accessories adorning the collection throughout. One might expect a somewhat more atmosperically sombre body of work, given the palette and inspiration, yet I feel it’s actually quite jolly.
Heavily textured, the mix of fabrics, layers and silhouettes creates a very dynamic collection. The long loose layers are evocative of wings without being literal, and the feathers are used sparingly so it never looks too contrived.
The oversized, sheer sweater is wonderful, in humble my opinion.